Why hitting your dog is the wrong way to manage its behavior

You shouldn't hit your dog. I won't lie and say it's because it doesn't work as a form of discipline; hitting and beating a dog definitely works — but not in the way you might think.

Even though your dog in may stop whatever behavior you wanted it to cease after you hit him, this doesn't necessarily mean he understands what behavior you were referring to. Dogs don't always associate your punishment with what they have just done. More often than not, they're simply associating the corporal punishment it with you, and making the judgment that you, the owner, is an aggressive, violent person whom they should either fear, or fight.

This is generally why hitting your dog may only really lead to one of two things: making them more fearful of you, or making them more aggressive.

And beyond that, hitting your dog is not okay for the simple fact that it is animal abuse.

In fact, if you really think about it, hitting your dog as a form of communication doesn't really make any sense at all. You and your dog do not speak the same language, so why would you assume that by using physical punishment they would understand what you're trying to communicate? If you met someone from a foreign country who didn't speak your language, would your first response to them not being able to understand you or your culture be to punch him in the face? I think not. And that person probably wouldn't know WHY you punched them either.

In my experience, a much more effective way to ensure your dog does not repeat bad behavior is to simply enforce positive behavior.

For example, if your dog relieves himself inside the house, don't scream, yell or hit. He won't understand whether you're angry because he relieved himself on the floor, that specific part of the floor, or if you're just angry that he relieved himself at all.

A much more effective way to control your dog behavior would be for you to reward him when he does his business in the area you have designated for such behavior. When you praise him or give him treats when he relieves himself in the correct location, this reinforces in your dog's the behavior that you like, and that they know that if they repeat the action in the future they will probably be rewarded again. So the next time they feel like they have to go, instead of going in a place where they know they won't be rewarded positively, they will opt for the place where expect they will be rewarded with something in return. Over time, it simply becomes habit.

And if you're a skeptic who has doubts as to whether this actually works, at least consider this: I house broke my dog in under a month and a half when he was only 3-4 months old by using only positive reinforcement.

Why do dogs kick their back legs?

Have you ever noticed some dogs kick back their hind legs after they've gone to the bathroom? They do these backward kicks that scrape their paws and nails along the ground, and if this happens to occur on a patch of dirt and/or grass, it sends debris and other unpleasantness flying.

Contrary to what many people think, dogs aren't doing this to cover up whatever waste they just left behind. In fact, dogs have scent glands in the pads of their feet, and by kicking back and scraping their paws along the ground, they are trying further spread their scent around and mark their territory. In dominant dogs, this could be a signal to other dogs to keep out unless they want trouble. In submissive dogs, this could be their way of letting other canines know that they've been there and they're not looking for a confrontation.

Some people don't recommend allowing dogs to carry on with such behavior, as not only does this create a mess, but it could also mean you're losing control of your pet, particularly dominant dogs. Dominant dogs who try to spread their scent aren't looking to you for direction, but actually asserting their leadership in the area that they've marked, which probably means they don't have much respect for you either. Even if your dog is mostly well-behaved, allowing such behavior basically encourages the pup to take control of a walk.

And a walk should mostly be for that purpose — walking. Walking or running outdoors should be more about exercise than anything else. Training your dog to eliminate outdoors should always be in a specific area, this way you can ensure you have a well-behaved pet that won't leave waste anywhere he/she wants and cause a mess that your neighbors will scowl at you for.

Different kinds of dog collars, leashes and their purpose

Some dog leashes and collars seem very difficult to use, but this doesn't necessarily mean they are poorly designed, it may mean you've just been using one that isn't the best choice for your pet. There are many different kinds of collars and leads that have been created for different purposes, and the trick is to figure out which one is best suited for your particular dog. For example, collars may be fine for dogs such as Labradors and Retrievers, but it's a terrible choice for my French Bulldog, who has a small head and thick neck. This means collars easily slip off of his head and he could run off. Frenchies also have broad chests, which means they are much easier to control using harnesses as opposed to collars anyway.

So, I've compiled a list of different kinds of collars and leashes below with explanations of their functions and what kinds dogs they may be best suited for. Hopefully this will be helpful to those of you who aren't sure what to use when taking your dog out for a walk.

Collars

Standard flat collars

This is probably the most commonly used and most often seen type of dog collar. However, it's important to make sure to use the size that is closest to the size of your dog's neck, then adjust it accordingly. Most flat collars like these are designed to be easily adjustable to make them a few inches wider or narrower. I like to keep such collars wide enough so I can snugly fit a finger underneath. This is enough space to prevent choking the dog, but not enough so that it is so loose that it could easily slip off the dog's head.

These collars are great for big dogs such as Labradors, as their necks are strong enough that these types of collars won't hurt them, and experienced dog owners have better control as a quick tug lets the dog know which direction you want to lead them in.

Harnesses

This is what I prefer to use with my French Bulldog. Dogs such as Frenchies and English Bulls have wide chests that make them much easier to restrain with harnesses rather than standard collars. Canines with short snouts may also already have respiratory issues, and standard collars can easily cut off their airflow or choke them further.

I personally prefer to use harnesses designed with a wide stretch of fabric that comfortably wraps around the dog's torso, instead of harnesses that are designed with a series of straps, since I feel like this cuts into the dog's body, which could be rather uncomfortable for them.

Leader or head collars

Leader collars, also known as head collars, are a lot like slip leads in the way they keep unruly dogs from going to out of control. Part of the leash is designed to fit around the dog's face so that you have more control over the movement of his had. Whenever the dog starts to get rowdy by jumping, pulling or barking, a gentle tug will remind him who's boss. Just don't yank on it too hard, or you risk hurting or scaring the dog.

As this kind of leash is designed to loop around a dog's face, it really only works on dog's with long snouts, and not flat-faced dogs like Pugs.

Slip leads or choke chains

Slip leads or choke chains are usually used on large dogs that are a bit unrulier and like to pull on the leash whenever they go for a walk.

Slip leads are simply leashes that are looped around a dog's neck and pulled through a ring on one end of the lead so that when a dog starts to charge forward, the leash tightens around his neck, creating an uncomfortable experience that usually deters the dog from continuing to barrel on forward.

When used correctly, this is generally quite effective in keeping dogs in line, but the key phrase is "when used correctly." Owners should not rely on creating pain or discomfort to get their dogs to behave. Such collars should only be used by experienced dog owners to help teach their pets what correct behavior should be, eventually rendering the use of such collars to be unnecessary.

Prong or pinch collars

Prong collars, also known as pinch collars, are designed with blunt prongs lining the inside of the collar, so that when a dog becomes unruly, they pinch the loose skin around a dog's neck. It is important that dogs are correctly fitted for these types of collars to prevent using one that could accidentally pinch their trachea.

Again, prong collars should only be used by experienced dog owners who know what their doing, and who are using it to help teach their dogs how to behave. Don't rely on the discomfort or pain aspect to train a dog. Rather, use it as an aid to encourage correct behavior, and eventually phase out the use of the collar. If you're not confident on how to use one, don't use it.

Leashes

Standard 6-foot leashes

A sturdy 6-foot leash is what I recommend all dog owners use. They give you just the right amount of control over the dog and allow you to properly lead your pet.







Extendable/retractable leashes


I am aware of how popular extendable/retractable leashes are, but I don't like them. I think allowing the leash to extend further than six feet defeats the purpose of keeping a dog on one to begin with, and is actually rather dangerous, as even the most well-behaved dogs can be unpredictable when unexpected circumstances arise.

Furthermore, there have been cases where dogs were injured when owners have accidentally dropped the end of such leashes as they were retracting, which meant the plastic handle would go flying toward their pets, no doubt terrifying the dog. In some instances, dogs have been accidentally struck in the head by a retracting leash.

The purpose of keeping a dog on a leash is for the owner to lead the pet, and not the other way around. In my opinion, a well-constructed 6-foot lead is the way to go.

The dangers of hard chew toys for dogs

If you're the owner of a dog that is an aggressive chewer, your wallet may have taken a hit from constantly replacing his toys because he keeps chewing through them, until eventually you probably opted to get him the strongest, hardest chew toy you could find just to appease his penchant for masticating everything in his path.

However, dog owners should beware before giving their dogs hard toys to play with, even if the toys are designed for aggressive chewers, they may not necessarily be safe.

Some dogs just can't control themselves. Even under strict surveillance, dogs who are aggressive chewers risk breaking off a piece of their new toy and swallowing it, or breaking off parts of their teeth.

I speak from personal experience. I had mistakenly given my dog several "safe" hard chew toys to play with in order to satisfy his desire to chew, and chew hard. It was during a routine teeth-cleaning session that, to my horror, I noticed both of the dog's fourth premolars were completely split in half. They weren't bleeding and he didn't seem to be in any discomfort, but I rushed him to the vet anyway. There, the doctor shook his said and said the fractured pieces would have to be removed in order to prevent infection. A shame, the doctor said, considering the dog had otherwise perfectly healthy teeth, but he somehow managed to chew hard enough to shatter his premolars to pieces. The doctor added that dogs, like people, have different personalities, and mine in particular just doesn't know when to stop once he starts chewing.

Because I had made the decision to give the dog hard chew toys that I thought were safe for aggressive chewers, he needed to be anesthetized and endure dental surgery, I ended up paying hundreds of U.S. dollars in surgery fees, and my dog is now sans two vital premolars in his mouth.

Now, I only invest in firm rubber toys that the dog can't potentially chip his teeth on, or rope/cloth toys that he can pull and tug. I also take clean, old socks, tie them up into tight balls and the dog has a blast with them. Not only have these become his favorite, it has the added bonus of being cheap and safer than the expensive hard chew toys I used to buy.

However, even if you make the decision to never give your dog hard chew toys anymore, it is still important to always supervise your dog when he's chewing on something. With dogs, you just never know what kind of trouble they'll get into.

The importance of socializing your dog

Dogs are social creatures, just like people, which is why it's important to allow your dog to play with other dogs starting at an early age. Just like children at school, this is how dogs learn how to interact with others of their kind. This is an easy part of a dog's development to overlook, since many people don't consider how important it is for dogs to get along with other dogs, so long as they get long with their human owners. However, interacting with other canines could help you raise a more well-behaved dog.

As many people already know, the rough and tumble play between puppies is how they figure out which dog is the "alpha dog." Although it is all in good fun, it also helps dogs figure out how they should behave in an environment outside the home. For example, they will learn what kind of behavior is accepted by other dogs and what is considered too aggressive. They will also learn to read the body language of other canines, and understand which dogs are behaving in a friendly manner and which ones are potential threats, and are better left alone. In a way, having social skills protects your dog, as he or she will learn how to "communicate" effectively with other dogs. It also helps your dog become more confident, more balanced, and less likely to react anxiously or in a threatening manner if they meet a other dogs in the future.

That said, it isn't enough to only socialize your dog when he or she is a puppy. Again, just like people, they need to see their friends and meet new ones even when they've grown into adults. Even if dogs were socialized as pups, they may still become unruly and aggressive if socialization is discontinued after they're grown.

Of course, some owners may argue, "But I have a small dog, I just won't let them out of the house. Ever. Then he won't know what he's missing." I actually knew someone like that, and to do that to your canine is quite cruel. Although we all consider our pets to be our companions, it's important to let them see the world and live their own lives as well! Allowing them the freedom to be among other dogs is not only fun and emotionally beneficial to them, but also challenges them and drains their energy when play is involved, therefore helping to keep them healthy, and takes a little pressure off of you - for that day at least - to make sure your dog is getting enough exercise.

How to quickly housebreak your dog

One thing that I have always been very proud of as a dog owner is that all of the dogs I've ever owned learned to relieve themselves in the right places within a couple of weeks of moving into my home. Training your puppy or dog to pee where you want him to should be the first "trick" you try to teach him when it's been introduced into your home. However, be warned—this process takes a lot of time, energy and patience, some dogs also learn at slower rates than others. But housebreaking is certainly the first thing I always devote myself to, because once that issue is resolved, you can fully enjoy the company of your pet without worrying about finding nasty puddles to clean up around the house.

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Here are some ways to housebreak your dog that have always worked for me:

1. Go insane with praise

The most important thing that every pet owner should know is that positive reinforcement works exponentially better than punishment after bad behavior, which hardly — if ever — works at all. This means you should NEVER hit or strike their dog for bad behavior. Dogs don't speak your language, they don't understand what the words coming out of your mouth mean, therefore they will not associate your violence with the urine they left on the living room rug an hour ago. Imagine a giant stomping over to you, screaming in a language you don't understand and punching you in the gut for no reason. Now imagine this happening all the time because you don't know what you're doing that is making the giant angry. This is how your pet sees you when you lash out over bad behavior.

Instead, what you should do is go absolutely insane with praise and treats when your dog does his business in the right place. I generally act very excited, jumping up and down while rewarding my dogs with healthy snacks, just to make sure he knows that peeing in the correct location was the most amazing thing he could have ever done. Over time, your dog will remember the rewards of doing his business in certain areas, and try to repeat this good behavior to acquire more praise from you. However, if your dog pees in the wrong place, just try to keep your temper and clean it up. Do not scold unless you actually caught your dog in the act; he will have no idea what you're talking even about if its only been a few minutes since he peed in your bedroom.

2. Fence in his peeing/pooping area

This point may not be so relevant to those who only allow their dogs to relieve themselves outdoors. However, if you are a dog owner who allows your dog to relieve himself in certain areas of the house, or on pee pads, then make sure you find a way to fence in these areas while training your dog to do his business. The barricade is to make sure your dog doesn't wander off into any other parts of the house and mistake its peeing area to be outside the space you have marked. However, since dogs are reluctant to relieve themselves in spaces they consider their own, you must stand by and immediately remove your pet from the designated space once he has successfully relieved himself, and praise him for his good work.

3. Constantly move your dog to his peeing area

This part of the training process can be exhausting, especially when you need to do it in the middle of the night, but it is the most effective way to ensure your dog learns quickly where to go when he needs to relieve himself. You should move your dog to the designated peeing area any time he looks anxious or restless, is stirring in his sleep, and about 10 minutes after every meal or large drink of water. While I was training my dog, I always left him in the peeing space for about 10-15 minutes, and once he relieved himself I would remove him from the space and praise him. Don't worry if you get it wrong sometimes though, 15 minutes may go by and nothing will happen. In which case you can remove the dog from the peeing area, but keep a watchful eye. The idea is to condition your dog to know where to go every time he needs to relieve himself.

When I trained my dog using this method, he eventually understood where to go if he needed to relieve himself inside the house, and started going to the correct location without needing me to bring him there. That is when you know you can probably remove the fence from around the peeing area, and gradually phase out the over-the-top praise and treats. I do occasionally still commend my dog for peeing in the right place, just so he knows that I still appreciate it.

4. Clean up accidents as thoroughly as possible

Dogs can smell their scent wherever they have relieved themselves, and tend to return to those same places to pee again. This means if your dog happens to do its business in the wrong place, try to clean it up as spotlessly as possible. This includes multiple washes with soap and water, a thorough wipe down or cleanse with disinfectant, then use some kind of fragrant pet-safe spray to mask any lingering odors. Obviously, this is much harder to accomplish with carpets and rugs versus tiled or wooden floors, so if you're still trying to housebreak your dog, make sure you keep it away from any areas of the house with fabric on the floor.

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In my experience, it's much easier to housebreak a puppy versus a grown dog who has already established certain habits of relieving himself. This is why you should remember to be much more patient with grown dogs, and perhaps try to compromise with whatever peeing regimen he is already accustomed to.